Winter in Sevilla, Spain? You bet! While most people dream of summer siestas and scorching sun, we decided to extend our Portugal trip (because WHY NOT?) and explore this Andalusian gem during the off-season. And let me tell you, Sevilla in winter is a whole different kind of magic. With fewer tourists, cooler temperatures, and an abundance of holiday cheer, it was an unforgettable experience filled with laughter, delicious eats, incredible wine and a few memorable missteps. Here’s a peek into our winter adventure in Sevilla, complete with tips on where to eat and what to visit.
Arrival and the Art of Walking
After a surprisingly smooth drive (we came from Cascais, it was about 4 hours and 30 min of Spanish guittar, Rosalia and Enrique Iglesias playing in the car), we arrived in Sevilla, ready to embrace the cooler temperatures. When we lived in Portugal a couple of years ago, we traveled often to Spain and Seville was always a favorite spot, so we already kinda knew our way around the city. The first lesson to be learned? You won't really need a car. Once we arrived at our hotel and parked the car, we never used it the entire time were there. Also, Spanish winters are a bit deceptive. Sure, it’s cooler, but it’s also sunny enough to fool you.
Where we stayed:
Located in the heart of downtown of Seville and only a 4 min walk to Las Setas, Casa del Rey Sabio was a hidden gem. For almost 8 centuries, Muslims occupied Spain. the Arab culture has left its mark through dance, food, and islamic architecture which is super present in the building’s arches and tile work dated way back to the 12th century.
Aesthetic minimalist design mixed with some organic elements, our apartment was perfect and had everything we needed, specially for traveling with kids. The staff was friendly and super helpful with tips for the best restaurants and attractions around. The only problem waswe couldn't stay longer. 10/10!
Where to Eat: Casa Carmen
We setled to go for dinner at Casa Carmen which was around 10min walk from where we were staying. Food was great, house wine was amazing. Totally recommend!
Where to Eat near Las Setas:
The first nght we arrived, we were so hungry that we didn't feel like walking too far, I wish I could remember the name of this Tapas Bar we stopped because everything was so good, specially the shrimp and the Patatas Bravas. Not to mention the insane view of Las Setas.
Where to have Breakfast: Bar El Comercio
If you're American, please forget about the traditional bacon and eggs for a few days and try your best to embrace the spanish culture of coffee and pastries, I promise you won't regret it. We got a recommendation from a friend to go to Bar El Comercio for the best Churros con Chocolate and it was delish! Needless to say that the kids LOVED it!
Exploring the City
Where to Visit: Las Setas, Seville
Visiting Las Setas in Seville is like stepping into a surreal, futuristic dreamscape right in the heart of this historic city. Officially known as the Metropol Parasol, this wooden structure boasts sprawling mushroom-like canopies that offer both shade and spectacular views. Wandering through its undulating pathways, you can marvel at the panoramic vistas of Seville from the observation deck. Don't miss the chance to enjoy a sunset from the top—watching the city's iconic landmarks bathed in golden light from this modern marvel is an experience that blends the old and new in the most delightful way.
Where to Eat: El Rinconcillo
For lunch, I headed to El Rinconcillo, the oldest tapas bar in Sevilla, established in 1670. The history seeps from the wooden beams and tiled walls. I ordered a plate of espinacas con garbanzos (spinach with chickpeas), which was the perfect warm, hearty dish for a winter’s day. Their selection of local wines didn’t hurt either.
Flamenco and Food Market
Where to Visit: Triana Neighborhood
No trip to Sevilla is complete without experiencing flamenco. We crossed the Guadalquivir River to the Triana neighborhood, the heart of flamenco culture. The narrow streets and colorful houses add to the charm of this vibrant area. I booked a show at CasaLa Teatro, a small, intimate venue where the passion and intensity of flamenco came alive. I might have attempted a few flamenco steps afterward. Let’s just say it’s harder than it looks.
Where to Eat: Mercado Lonja del Barranco
Saving the best for last. We came to this place once a few years ago when we were living in Faro and we loved it so much we had to come back.
Visiting Mercado Lonja del Barranco in Seville is a feast for the senses. Nestled along the Guadalquivir River, this beautifully restored 19th-century iron market hall offers a vibrant mix of traditional and contemporary flavors. As you stroll through the market, you'll find an enticing array of tapas, fresh seafood, artisanal cheeses, and decadent desserts. The lively atmosphere, with locals and tourists alike enjoying their culinary treasures, is infectious. Grab a glass of local wine and some jamón ibérico, find a spot on the terrace, and soak in the stunning river views and the essence of Seville's rich culinary heritage.
Sevilla in winter is a delight. The city’s rich history, vibrant culture, and mouth-watering cuisine make it a perfect destination any time of year. From exploring ancient palaces to getting lost in tapas heaven, my trip was filled with unforgettable moments and a few hilarious mishaps. If you’re looking for a winter getaway with a touch of Spanish magic, Sevilla should be at the top of your list. Just remember to pack layers and an appetite!
¡Salud!
